Trekking in Peru: is there a better alternative to Inca Trail?
If you are adventurous and want to trek to Machu Picchu independently, without a guide, 9-day Choquequirao trek is for you. Unlike with Inca Trail, which is the most famous trek in Peru, you are not required to obtain a permit and can go without a licensed guide. Not to mention there are no crowds whatsoever. Even if you decide to go with a guide, you don’t have to book well in advance like Inca trail.
In addition, you have a chance to see the remote Inca city of Choquequirao which is only accessible by at least 2 day hike. Currently, there is no road access to the ruins.
After reaching Choquequirao on day 2 most people turn back to Cachora. So if you decide to continue to hike all the way to Machu Picchu you will see very few people for another 3 days. Hiking after day 2 without a guide is challenging but doable. However, you need to be fit and confident in navigating mountainous terrain.
In general Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu takes 8 to 10 days. The highest point of the trek is at 15,289ft /4,660m (Yanama pass).
Choquequirao is a Little Sister of Machu Picchu
Choquequirao is called a little sister of Machu Picchu. The name Choquequirao is translated from Quechua as ‘Cradle of Gold’. The complex is huge and covers 2.3 sq.mi / 6 sq.km/ and includes city, ceremonial place, and agricultural terraces. But currently, the archaeologists excavated only about a third of the complex.
Unlike Machu Picchu, Choquequirao is not touristy at all. It is such a tranquil place: it is larger than Machu Picchu, and almost no tourists.
Choquequirao Trek: 9 Days vs 4 Days Trek
Choquequirao Trek has two options: you can do 4 days hike to Choquequirao, explore the ruins and return back following the same route or you can hike further all the way to Machu Picchu.
It took us another 6 days to get to Machu Picchu, but it was such an amazing experience and we were rewarded with mind-blowing views of the Andes.
After exploring Choquequirao Archaeological Park most hikers return to the start of the trail, so if you decide to trek to Machu Picchu, you will meet only few other trekkers.
Choquequirao Trek Without a Guide
Unlike the famous Inca Trail, the Choquequirao trek can be done independently, as it does not require going with a licensed guide. After visiting Choquequirao ruins, most trekkers go back to Cachora, but if you want to get off the beaten track, continue hiking to Machu Picchu for another 7 days or so. Hiking this part of the trek on your own without a guide is challenging but doable.
However, don’t go without a guide if you are not an experienced trekker and not confident in navigating mountainous terrain. Please also be aware that Choquequirao trek is considered one of the most difficult treks in the Cusco region, so you should be fit to go on this trek.
Go for Choquequirao Trek as soon as you can
If you don’t like crowded touristy places, don’t postpone going to Choquequirao Archaeological Park. Currently, the site is not accessible by car and can only be reached by at least 2 day hike which obviously limits the number of visitors. But after Choquequirao cable car line across the Apurimac canyon is built it will turn into another mass tourism site.
The government expects to attract around 200K tourists a year. Compare it to the current figure of only 5K people.
Best time for Choquequirao trek
The best time to visit Peru is during the dry season which is from May to October. The same applies to Choquequirao trek. Avoid trekking during the wet season from November to April when it rains almost every day. It is not only uncomfortable but is also a safety risk. Rivers are rising, the trail gets muddy and slippery, and the risk of landslides and rockfalls increases.
Acclimatize before going
Choquequirao trek takes you to high altitudes: the highest point of the trek is Yanama pass at 15,289ft/ 4,660m. Other passes are Abra San Juan (4,150m/ 13,615ft) and Abra Choquequirao (10,735ft /3,272m). Make sure you acclimatize before the trek.
Camping on Choquequirao trek
There are basic lodges in Capuliyoc and Marampata, but for the rest of the trek until you reach Yanama, the only option is camping, which means you have to carry all your camping gear and food supplies yourself if you go on your own. It will make the trek more difficult. If you want more comfort you can hire a muleteer at Cachora. At many of the campsites you can buy snacks and drinks, at some you ask for basic cooked meals.
But be aware that sometimes they run out of supplies. There were no shops on the stretch from Marampata to Maizal. In Maizal the camp owner sells some snacks and drinks. The village of Yanama is accessible by road, so after Yanama it will be easier to buy food and drinks. I have included more information on which campsites have small shops and cook a meal for you in the trek notes below.
Trailhead: Two Options
You can start Choquequirao trek either in Cahora or at Mirador de Capuliyoc.
We started Choquequirao trek at Cachora. There is not much to see at the beginning of the trek, so the guided tours start at Mirador de Capuliyoc, which 6.8mi /11km from Cachora.
How to get to Choquequirao trek trailhead
To get to Cachora take a local bus from Cusco heading to Abancay and ask to drop you off at a turn-off to Cachora. There are usually taxis waiting for people heading to Cachora. They can also take you to Mirador de Capuliyoc. Otherwise, you can stay overnight at Cachora.
Day 1. Cachora to Chiquisca, 10.9mi /17.5km
Distances, elevation gain, and elevation loss mentioned here are approximate. Please use this as a guide only.
Ascent: 1148ft /350m
Descent: 4,429ft /1350m
We spent the night in Cachora (9,534ft /2,900m) and started our trek from there. In the beginning, we went through agricultural fields, and soon there was a gentle climb to Mirador de Capuliyoc. The distance from Cachora to Mirador de Capuliyoc is about 6.8 mi/ 11 km. There are no impressive views on this stretch of the trek, so if you take a taxi to Mirador, you will save some much-needed energy. Afterward, we started descending into the Apurimac canyon. It was hot and most of the time we were under direct sunlight.
We planned to camp at Chiquisca (6,234ft /1,900m) and got there by around 3 pm. Chiquisca turned out to be the largest and busiest camping site on the trek. You can buy drinks and snacks, and ask a lady there to cook a simple meal for you.
You can also hike down for another 1.2 mi/2 km to Playa Rosalina campsite which is by the Apurimac river. There is a small shop, and you can also buy basic meals.
If you are a fast hiker, you can push further for another 3 km from Playa Rosalina and camp at Santa Rosa Baja. There is a small shop and basic cooked available.
Please note that there are two more campsites on this stretch of the trek. Capuliyoc campsite is located at the start of the trek and 6.8 mi/ 11 km from Cachora, so not many people stay here. But it’s a good option if you start your trek late. There are basic huts, campsites, and a small shop available. You can also buy basic meals here.
Cocamasana is a campsite with amazing views located approximately halfway between Capuliyoc and Chiquisca. It is also a good option if you start late and can’t get to Chiquisca or Playa Rosalina. There’s a small shop and cooked meals available.
Day 2. Chiquisca to Marampata, 5.8mi /9.4km
Ascent: 4,957ft /1,511m
Descent: 1,614ft /492m
Day 2 was physically challenging. In the morning we walked to the Apurimac river and crossed the bridge.
From there we hiked up to Marampata (9,577ft/2,919m), it was a steep and long ascent with a lot of switchbacks on the trail.
There were streams flowing down the mountains so we could refill our water bottles. From Chiquisca to Marampata there were several stalls selling drinks and food.
After a long and steep ascend we finally reached Marampata, a small Andean village overlooking the Apurimac canyon. The camping site was very nice with green grass and incredible views. You can buy food and drinks here.
Day 3. Marampata – Choquequirao Ruins – Rio Blanco, 9.25mi/ 14.9km
Ascent: 2,444ft/ 745m
Elevation loss: 5,873ft/1,790m
In the morning we hiked from Marampata (9,577ft/ 2,919m) to Choquequirao Archaeological Park (3,050m/ 10,007ft). Soon after leaving Marampata you will see impressive Paqchayoq terraces.
There were very few people there. It is such a tranquil place that allows a more intimate encounter with the Incan history.
We should have spent the rest of the day and camp at Choquequirao complex, enjoy the sunset and the sunrise.
The campsite is inside the Archaeological Park and the price is included in the entry ticket. You can’t buy any food or drinks here.
Anyway, we decided to continue, and after spending several hours at Choquequirao ruins we hiked up to Abra Choquequirao (10,735ft /3,272m) and then headed down to Rio Blanco (6,148ft /1,874m).
After about 3 hours of hiking down, there was a sign directing to the amazing Pinchaunuyoc terraces. We didn’t know about them. But luckily, the ranger at Choquequirao Archaeological Park told us not to miss them. You can also get water there, as they have an amazing Incan irrigation system.
It was hot, dry, and sunny, there was not much shade, so once we got to our campsite at the Rio Blanco, I jumped into the water and got bitten by small flies.
Day 4. Rio Blanco to Maizal, 3.4mi/ 5.5km
Ascent: 3,727ft/ 1,136m/
Descent: 36ft/ 11m
This day it was humid, unlike yesterday when it was hot and dry on the opposite side of the canyon. We hiked up to Maizal (9,839ft /2,999m). The view of the mountains covered with cloud forest was amazing. On the way up we heard a rumble of rockfall and saw the rocks falling down. It was the first and the last time I saw something like this.
It took us half a day to get to Maizal, and for the rest of the day, we were just relaxing and enjoying incredible views of the Andes.
There is a small shop, so you can buy some snacks and drinks.
Day 5. Maizal to Yanama, 7.1mi /11.5km
It was foggy in the morning. We started hiking up to Victoria Mines and further to Abra San Juan (13,615ft/ 4,150m) through the humid cloud forest. As we hiked up, it was getting colder. Closer to the top you will hike on the original paved Inca trail.
The views at Abra San Juan are absolutely stunning.
We had lunch at Abra San Juan and soon started descending to Yanama where we stayed for the night. Yanama is a small village with road access, so you can buy food and drinks there. Moreover, there is a phone at the local school. So if you are very tired, you can ask a camp owner to help you call a taxi.
Day 6. Yanama to Totora, 12mi/ 19km
Ascent: 1,245m/ 4,085ft
Descent: 1,472m/ 4,829ft
In the morning we headed to Yanama pass it started relatively flat, but at the end of Yanama valley, we started a steep hike to Yanama pass, which is the highest point of the trek (15,289ft/ 4,660m).
It was cold, windy, and was snowing. On the other side of the pass, it was misty, and as we were descending, the snow turned into drizzle.
Once we reached Totora, the rain became stronger. We put up a tent, and the rain wouldn’t stop. In the evening a minivan driver came to our tent and suggested we go with him to Santa Teresa. As it was raining we decided to go with him.
Day 7-8. Totora – Aguas Calientes
We left early morning and soon reached Colcapampa, where the trail meets with Salkantay trek. It was crowded, and noisy, there were lots of people. The driver picked up some other tourists and continued driving to Santa Teresa. In Santa Teresa, we took a shower and had lunch at the local market.
To get from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes on a budget you need to take a collectivo to Hydroelectica tain station and from there walk 7.5mi/ 12km along the railway lines to Aguas Calientes.
We missed Inca ruins of Llactapata
If we didn’t take a minibus to Santa Teresa, we had to hike for another 2 days. We planned to hike to La Playa, and then to Llactapata which is another Inca ruins site about 3mi/ 5km west of Machi Picchu. From there you can also see Machu Picchu. It’s a much less known view from a different angle.
The next day we planned to hike down to Hydroelectica train station and from there to Aguas Calientes along the railway lines. This is the only way to get to Aguas Calientes if you don’t take a train.
Aguas Calientes
There are a lot of different accommodation options including a campsite in Aguas Calientes.
To get to Machu Picchu you can take a bus from Aguas Calientes (approx. 30 min) or hike there (approx. 2h).
Getting back to Cusco
Expensive option: take a train
Budget option: walk 7.5 mi/12km along railway lines to Hydroelectica, take collectivo to Santa Teresa, from there collectivo to Santa Maria, and change to a bus to Cusco.
Information in this blog is provided as a guide only. You are responsible for your decisions, actions, and safety and we assume no liability for decisions made as a result of the information provided here.