Trekking in Peru: Is there a better alternative to the Inca Trail?
If you are adventurous and want to trek to Machu Picchu independently, without a guide, the 9-day Choquequirao trek is for you. Unlike with Inca Trail, which is the most famous trek in Peru, you are not required to obtain a permit and can go without a licensed guide. Not to mention, there are no crowds whatsoever. Even if you decide to go with a guide, you don’t have to book well in advance like the Inca Trail.
In addition, you have a chance to see the remote Inca city of Choquequirao, which is only accessible by at least a 2-day hike. Currently, there is no road access to the ruins.
After reaching Choquequirao on day 2, most people turn back to Cachora. So if you decide to continue to hike all the way to Machu Picchu, you will see very few people for another 3 days. Hiking after day 2 without a guide is challenging but doable. However, you need to be fit and confident in navigating mountainous terrain.
In general Choquequirao trek to Machu Picchu takes 8 to 10 days. The highest point of the trek is Yanama Pass at 15,289ft /4,660m.
Choquequirao is a Little Sister of Machu Picchu
Choquequirao is called the little sister of Machu Picchu. The name Choquequirao is translated from Quechua as ‘Cradle of Gold’. The complex is huge and covers 2.3 sq.mi / 6 sq.km/ and includes a city, a ceremonial place, and agricultural terraces. But currently, the archaeologists have excavated only about a third of the complex.
Unlike Machu Picchu, Choquequirao is not touristy at all. It is such a tranquil place: it is larger than Machu Picchu, and almost no tourists.
Choquequirao Trek: 9 Days vs 4 Days Trek
Choquequirao Trek has two options: you can do a 4-day hike to Choquequirao, explore the ruins and return following the same route, or you can hike further all the way to Machu Picchu.
If you want to explore Choquequirao and return back to Cachora, you can travel light, without carrying your camping gear, as there are rooms available on this part of the trek. There are basic cabins in Chiquisca, Santa Rosa Baja, and Marampata. You can also buy cooked meals at these stops for 15-20 soles.
It took us another 6 days to get to Machu Picchu, but it was such an amazing experience, and we were rewarded with mind-blowing views of the Andes.
After exploring Choquequirao Archaeological Park, most hikers return to the start of the trail, so if you decide to trek to Machu Picchu, you will meet only a few other trekkers.
Choquequirao Trek Without a Guide
Unlike the famous Inca Trail, the Choquequirao trek can be done independently, as it does not require going with a licensed guide. After visiting Choquequirao ruins, most trekkers go back to Cachora, but if you want to get off the beaten track, continue hiking to Machu Picchu for another 7 days or so. Hiking this part of the trek on your own without a guide is challenging but doable.
However, don’t go without a guide if you are not an experienced trekker and are not confident in navigating mountainous terrain. Keep in mind that Choquequirao trek is considered one of the most difficult treks in the Cusco region, so you should be fit to go on this trek.
Go for Choquequirao Trek as soon as you can
If you don’t like crowded touristy places, don’t postpone going to Choquequirao Archaeological Park. Currently, the site is not accessible by car and can only be reached by at least 2-day hike, which obviously limits the number of visitors. But after Choquequirao cable car line across the Apurimac canyon is built, it will turn into another mass tourism site.
The government expects to attract around 200K tourists a year. Compare it to the current figure of only 5K people.
Best time for Choquequirao trek
The best time to visit Peru is during the dry season, which is from May to October. The same applies to Choquequirao trek. Avoid trekking during the wet season from November to April when it rains almost every day. It’s not only uncomfortable but is also a safety risk. Rivers are rising, the trail gets muddy and slippery, and the risk of landslides and rockfalls increases. According to the local guides, November is the last month when it is more or less safe to hike; it does rain every day, but it is the start of the rainy season. December to March is unsafe, as heavy rains cause landslides.
Acclimatise before going
Choquequirao trek takes you to high altitudes: the highest point of the trek is Yanama pass at 15,289ft/ 4,660m. Other passes are Abra San Juan (4,150m/ 13,615ft) and Abra Choquequirao (10,735ft /3,272m). Make sure you acclimatise before the trek.
Accommodation and Camping on Choquequirao trek
There are basic rooms in Chiquisca, Santa Rosa Baja, and Marampata. You can also buy cooked meals at these stops for 15-20 soles. This means you can travel light without carrying camping gear if you plan to hike to Choquiequirao and return to Cachora following the same route.
However, for the rest of the trek after Marampata and until you reach Yanama, the only option is camping, which means you have to carry all your camping gear and food supplies yourself if you plan to hike all the way to Machu Picchu, go on your own. It will make the trek more difficult. If you want more comfort, you can hire a muleteer at Cachora. At many of the campsites, you can buy snacks and drinks, and at some you can ask for basic cooked meals.
But be aware that sometimes they run out of supplies. There were no shops on the stretch from Marampata to Maizal. In Maizal, the camp owner sells some snacks and drinks. The village of Yanama is accessible by road, so after Yanama, it will be easier to buy food and drinks. In the trek notes below, I have included more information on which campsites have small shops and can cook a meal for you.
Trailhead: Two Options
You can start Choquequirao trek either in Cahora or at Mirador de Capuliyoc.
We started at Cachora. There is not much to see at the beginning of the trek, so the guided tours start at Mirador de Capuliyoc, which 6.8mi /11km from Cachora.
How to get to the Choquequirao trek trailhead
To get to Cachora, take a local bus from Cusco heading to Abancay and ask to be dropped off at a turn-off to Cachora. There are usually taxis waiting for people heading to Cachora. As of November, taxi charges 50 soles. They can also take you to Mirador de Capuliyoc. Otherwise, you can stay overnight at Cachora.
Day 1. Cachora to Chiquisca, 11.2 mi /18 km
Distances, elevation gain, and elevation loss mentioned here are approximate. Please use this as a guide only.
Ascent: 1148ft /350m
Descent: 4,429ft /1350m
We spent the night in Cachora (9,534ft /2,900m) and started our trek from there. At the start, we hiked through agricultural fields, and soon there was a gentle climb to Mirador de Capuliyoc. The distance from Cachora to Mirador de Capuliyoc is about 6.8 mi/ 11 km. There are no impressive views on this stretch of the trek, so if you take a taxi to Mirador, you will save some much-needed energy. Afterwards, we started descending into the Apurimac canyon. It was hot most of the time, and we were under direct sunlight.
If you start trekking from Mirador de Capuliyoc, the distance to Chiquisca is 7 km, which means you can hike further on the first day. You can hike either to Santa Rosa Baja (11.3 km) or to Marampata (14.7 km). Both places have camping sites and rooms.
We planned to camp at Chiquisca (6,234ft /1,900m) and got there by around 3 pm. Chiquisca turned out to be the largest and busiest camping site on the trek. There are rooms available here, a room + dinner costs 42 soles. Lunch costs 18 soles. You can buy drinks and snacks.
There was another campsite by the Apurimac river – Playa Rosalina, which was 1.2 mi/2 km further from Chiquisca, however, currently closed as of November 2024.
If you are a fast hiker, or started from Mirador de Capuliyoc, you can push further for another 3 km from Playa Rosalina and stay at Santa Rosa Baja. There are rooms available for 25-30 soles. Camping is 10 soles. There is a small shop and cooked meals available for 15 soles.
Please note that there are two more campsites on this stretch of the trek. Capuliyoc campsite is located at the start of the trek and 6.8 mi/ 11 km from Cachora, so not many people stay here. But it’s a good option if you start your trek late. There are basic huts, campsites, and a small shop available. You can also buy meals here.
There is a campsite and rooms in Cocamasana located approximately halfway between Capuliyoc and Chiquisca. It is also a good option if you start late and can’t get to Chiquisca or Playa Rosalina. There’s a small shop and cooked meals available.
Day 2. Chiquisca to Marampata, 5.8mi /9.4km
Ascent: 4,957ft /1,511m
Descent: 1,614ft /492m
Day 2 was physically challenging. In the morning, we walked to the Apurimac River and crossed the bridge.
From there, we hiked up to Marampata (9,577ft/2,919m). It was a steep and long ascent with a lot of switchbacks on the trail.
There were streams flowing down the mountains, so we could refill our water bottles. From Chiquisca to Marampata, there were several stalls selling drinks and food.
After a long and steep ascent, we finally reached Marampata, a small Andean village overlooking the Apurimac canyon. The camping site was very nice with green grass and incredible views. You can buy food and drinks here.
Day 3. Marampata – Choquequirao Ruins – Rio Blanco, 9.25mi/ 14.9km
Ascent: 2,444ft/ 745m
Elevation loss: 5,873ft/1,790m
In the morning, we hiked about 4 km from Marampata (9,577ft/ 2,919m) to Choquequirao Archaeological Park (3,050m/ 10,007ft). Soon after leaving Marampata, you will see impressive Paqchayoq terraces.
If you do a 4-day trek, and don’t carry camping gear, stay for a night in Marampata, visit Choquequirao complex, and return and stay for another night in Marampata or Santa Rosa Baja.
There were very few people at Choquequirao. It’s an incredibly peaceful place that allows a more intimate encounter with the Incan history.
We should have spent the rest of the day camping at Choquequirao complex, enjoying the sunset and the sunrise.
The campsite is inside the Archaeological Park, and the price is included in the entry ticket. You can’t buy any food or drinks here.
Anyway, we decided to continue, and after spending several hours at Choquequirao, we hiked up to Abra Choquequirao (10,735ft /3,272m) and then headed down to Rio Blanco (6,148ft /1,874m).
After about 3 hours of hiking down, there was a sign directing us to the amazing Pinchaunuyoc terraces. Luckily, the ranger at Choquequirao Archaeological Park told us not to miss them. You can also get water there, as they have an amazing Incan irrigation system.
It was hot, dry, and sunny; there was not much shade, so once we got to our campsite at the Rio Blanco, I jumped into the river and got bitten by small flies.
Day 4. Rio Blanco to Maizal, 3.4mi/ 5.5km
Ascent: 3,727ft/ 1,136m/
Descent: 36ft/ 11m
This day it was humid, unlike yesterday when it was hot and dry on the opposite side of the canyon. We hiked up to Maizal (9,839ft /2,999m). The view of the mountains covered with cloud forest was amazing. On the way up, we heard a rumble of rockfall and saw the rocks falling down.
It took us half a day to get to Maizal, and for the rest of the day, we were just relaxing and enjoying incredible views of the Andes.
There is a small shop, so you can buy some snacks and drinks.
Day 5. Maizal to Yanama, 7.1mi /11.5km
It was foggy in the morning. We started hiking up to Victoria Mines and further to Abra San Juan (13,615ft/ 4,150m) through the humid cloud forest. As we hiked up, it was getting colder. Closer to the top, you will hike on the original paved Inca trail.
The views at Abra San Juan are absolutely stunning.
We had lunch at Abra San Juan and soon started descending to Yanama, where we stayed for the night. Yanama is a small village with road access, so you can buy food and drinks there. Moreover, there is a phone at the local school. So if you are very tired, you can ask a camp owner to help you call a taxi.
Day 6. Yanama to Totora, 12mi/ 19km
Ascent: 1,245m/ 4,085ft
Descent: 1,472m/ 4,829ft
In the morning, we headed to Yanama pass it started relatively flat, but at the end of Yanama valley, we started a steep hike to Yanama pass, which is the highest point of the trek (15,289ft/ 4,660m).
It was cold, windy, and snowing. On the other side of the pass, it was misty, and as we were descending, the snow turned into drizzle.
Once we reached Totora, the rain became stronger. We put up a tent, and the rain wouldn’t stop. In the evening, a minivan driver came to our tent and suggested we go with him to Santa Teresa. As it was raining, we decided to go with him.
Day 7-8. Totora – Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)
We left early morning and soon reached Colcapampa, where the trail meets with the Salkantay trek. There were lots of people. The driver picked up some other tourists and continued driving to Santa Teresa. In Santa Teresa, we took a shower and had lunch at the local market.
To get from Santa Teresa to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) on a budget, you need to take a collectivo to the Hydroelectrica train station and from there walk 7.5mi/ 12km along the railway lines to Aguas Calientes.
We missed the Inca ruins of Llactapata
If we didn’t take a minibus to Santa Teresa, we had to hike for another 2 days. We planned to hike to La Playa, and then to Llactapata, which is another Inca ruins site about 3mi/ 5km west of Machi Picchu. From there, you can also see Machu Picchu. It’s a much less-known view from a different angle.
The next day, we planned to hike down to Hydroelectrica train station and from there to Aguas Calientes along the railway lines. This is the only way to get to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) if you don’t take a train.
Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo)
There are plenty of various accommodation options, including a campsite in Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo).
To get to Machu Picchu, you can take a bus from Aguas Calientes (approx. 30 min) or hike there (approx. 2h).
Getting back to Cusco
Expensive option: take a train
Budget option: walk 7.5 mi/12km along railway lines to Hydroelectica, take a colectivo to Santa Teresa, from there a colectivo to Santa Maria, and change to a bus to Cusco.
Want more inspiration for travel in Peru? Check out my post on Pallay Punchu – Peru’s Hidden Rainbow Mountain
Information in this blog is provided as a guide only. You are responsible for your decisions, actions, and safety, and we assume no liability for decisions made as a result of the information provided here.