Trekking in Peru: Is there a better alternative to the Inca Trail?
If you are adventurous and want to trek to Machu Picchu independently, without a guide, the 9-day Choquequirao Trek is for you. Unlike the Inca Trail, which is the most famous trek in Peru, you are not required to obtain a permit in advance and can go without a licensed guide. Not to mention, there are no crowds whatsoever. Even if you decide to go with a guide, you don’t have to book well in advance like the Inca Trail.
In addition, you will see the remote Inca city of Choquequirao, which is only accessible by at least a 2-day hike. Currently, there is no road access to the ruins.
Choquequirao to Machu Picchu Trek Overview
Choquequirao is a Little Sister of Machu Picchu
One of the highlights of the trek is the Choquequirao archaeological site, often called the little sister of Machu Picchu. The name Choquequirao comes from Quechua and means ‘Cradle of Gold’.
The complex is huge and covers 2.3 sq.mi / 6 sq.km/ and includes residential sectors, a ceremonial place, and agricultural terraces. But currently, the archaeologists have excavated only about a third of the complex. Unlike Machu Picchu, Choquequirao remains quiet and uncrowded.
Preparing for the Choquequirao Trek
Choquequirao Trek: 9 Days vs 4 Days Trek
Choquequirao Trek has two options: you can do a 4-day hike to Choquequirao, explore the ruins, and return following the same route, or you can hike further all the way to Machu Picchu.
If you want to explore Choquequirao and return to Cachora, you can travel light, without carrying your camping gear, as there are rooms available on this part of the trek. There are basic cabins in Chiquisca, Santa Rosa Baja, and Marampata. You can also buy cooked meals at these stops for 15-20 soles.
It took us another 6 days to get to Machu Picchu, but it was such an amazing experience, and we were rewarded with mind-blowing views of the Andes.
After exploring Choquequirao Archaeological Park, most hikers return to the start of the trail, so if you decide to trek to Machu Picchu, you will meet only a few other trekkers.
Choquequirao Trek Without a Guide
Unlike the famous Inca Trail, the Choquequirao trek can be done independently, as it does not require a licensed guide. Most trekkers return to Cachora after visiting the Choquequirao ruins, but if you want to go further off the beaten path, you can continue all the way to Machu Picchu, which adds roughly another seven days of hiking. Three days will be remote hiking.
For experienced hikers, completing this route independently is challenging but absolutely doable. However, this is not a casual trek. It is considered one of the most demanding routes in the Cusco region.
On most days, you will gain more than 1,000 m in elevation; on some days, the elevation gain will exceed 1,500 m. For example, on Day 2, there is a 1,350 m descent into the Apurimac canyon followed by a 1,508 m climb back up. It’s all in a single day.
If you do not have prior multi-day hiking experience, are not familiar with high-altitude trekking, or are not confident navigating mountainous terrain, joining a guided tour is the safer choice. You wouldn’t have to worry about navigation, carrying camping gear, finding camping grounds or accommodation, or cooking food.
Go for the Choquequirao Trek as soon as you can
If you don’t like crowded touristy places, don’t postpone going to Choquequirao Archaeological Park. Currently, the site is not accessible by car and can only be reached by at least 2-day hike, which obviously limits the number of visitors. But after the Choquequirao cable car line across the Apurimac canyon is built, it will turn into another mass tourism site.
The government expects to attract around 200K tourists a year. Compare it to the current figure of only 5K people.
Best time for Choquequirao Trek
The best time to visit Peru is during the dry season, which is from May to September. The same applies to the Choquequirao trek.
April, October, and early November are considered shoulder season. You may experience mixed weather, occasional muddy sections, and fewer hikers. According to local guides, it’s more or less safe to hike. Although it can rain every day, conditions are usually more manageable than during the peak wet season.
Avoid trekking during the wet season from December to March when it rains heavily almost every day. It’s not only uncomfortable but also a safety risk. Heavy rains cause landslides. Be warned that heavy rains can cause rivers to rise, making them impassable.
Acclimatise before going
Choquequirao is a high-altitude trek. Its highest point is Mariano Llamocca Pass /Yanama Pass (4,660 m / 15,289 ft), followed by Abra San Juan (4,150 m / 13,615 ft) and Abra Choquequirao (3,272 m / 10,735 ft). Make sure you acclimatise properly before starting the trek.
Choquequirao Trek Logistics
Choquequirao Entrance Fee
There is an entrance fee to the Choquequirao archaeological site: 60 soles is paid in cash at the checkpoint at Capuliyoc
Accommodation and Camping on the Choquequirao Trek
Basic accommodation is available in Chiquisca, Santa Rosa Baja, and Marampata, Yanama, Totora, Collpapampa, Playa, Lucmabamba, and Llactapata. You can also buy cooked meals at these stops for 15-20 soles. This means you can travel light without carrying camping gear if you plan to hike to Choquiequirao and return to Cachora following the same route.
However, if you do the Choquequirao trek all the way to Machu Picchu, for the rest of the trek after Marampata and until you reach Yanama, the only option is camping, which means you have to carry all your camping gear and food supplies yourself if you plan to hike all the way to Machu Picchu. If you go on your own, it will make the trek more difficult. So for more comfort, you can hire a muleteer at Cachora.
Update for 2026: There are recent reports that accommodation is now available in Maizal. You can read more about this in the Facebook thread here. This means if you can cover the distance from Marampata to Maizal in one day, including a visit to Choquequirao, you could potentially hike without camping gear.
Things to consider when making a decision to hike without camping gear
However, before you make a decision to hike without camping gear, consider the following.
- The distance between Marampata and Maizal is approx 20.5 km, with around 1,880 m of elevation gain and 1,800 m of elevation loss. This would be a long and extremely demanding day, especially considering how steep both the descent and the ascent are. It should only be attempted by experienced and very fit hikers.
- You’ll need some time to properly explore the Choquequirao ruins on that day.
- Don’t rely too much on the availability of accommodation on the stretch between Marampata and Yanama, as this is a very remote area.
Please note that the availability of the accommodation, shops and cooked food. You can verify information locally in Cachora, or even in advance with tour agencies in Cusco.
Shops and Meals on the Choquequirao Trek
You can buy snacks and drinks at campsites, and at some you can ask for basic cooked meals. But be aware that sometimes they run out of supplies. There were no shops on the stretch from Marampata to Maizal. In Maizal, the camp owner sells some snacks and drinks. The village of Yanama is accessible by road, so after Yanama, it will be easier to buy food and drinks. In the trek notes below, I have included more information on which campsites have small shops and can cook a meal for you.
How to get to the Choquequirao Trek trailhead: Step by step from Cusco
You can start the Choquequirao trek either from Cachora or from Capuliyoc.
- Cusco to Ramal de Cachora: to get to Cachora, take a local bus from Cusco Terminal Terrestre heading to Abancay and ask to be dropped off at a turn-off to Cachora. Cachora is about 150 km from Cusco, and the bus ride takes about 4 hours. Bus fare: 35-40 soles.
- Ramal de Cachora to Cachora: Once you get off the bus, you will see taxis waiting for people heading to Cachora. As of November 2024, taxi charges 50 soles to get from Ramal de Cachora to Cachora.
Alternatively, you can also take a taxi directly to Capuliyoc for 100 soles, or stay overnight in Cachora and take a taxi from there to Capuliyoc for 50 soles the following morning.
Accommodation is available in both Cachora and Capuliyoc. So you can stay in either of them, or if you arrive early enough to Capuliyoc, you can hike to Chiquisca on the same day (about 7.5 km hike).
Accommodation in Cachora is cheaper, as there are more options available than in Capuliyoc. In Capuliyoc you can stay in cabins or camp at Choquequirao Wasi Camp. There is also a small shop available, and you can buy meals here.
We started the trek from Cachora. But there is not much to see between Cachora and Capuliyoc, so guided tours and many independent hikers start the trek from Capuliyoc, which 6.8mi /11km from Cachora.
What I would do differently
Looking back, the best way to do it is to take a morning 6 am bus from Cusco to Ramal de Cachora, get a taxi directly to Capuliyoc, and from there hike 7.5 km to Chiquisca or 11.5 km to Santa Rosa Baja on the same day. This works better, especially if you are short of time. Starting the trek from Capuliyoc will definitely save you much-needed energy and about 2.5-3 hours of hiking time.
Choquequirao Trek: Trail Notes & What to Expect
Day 1. Cachora to Chiquisca, 11.2 mi /18 km
Distances, elevation gain, and elevation loss mentioned here are approximate. Please use this as a guide only.
Day 1 at a Glance
We spent the night in Cachora (9,285ft /2,830m) and started our trek from there. At the start, we hiked through agricultural fields, and soon there was a gentle climb to Mirador de Capuliyoc (2,940 m). The ascent is 377 m, and the descent is 274 m. The distance from Cachora to Mirador de Capuliyoc is about 6.52 mi/ 10.5 km. It took us about 3 hours to reach the mirador. There are no impressive views on this stretch of the trek, so if you take a taxi to Mirador, you will save some much-needed energy.
You’ll pay the 60-soles entrance fee at the Capuliyoc checkpoint. Students pay 30 soles with a valid student card. Payment must be made in cash.
We had some rest and started descending into the Apurimac canyon. It took us another 2.5 hours to get from Mirador de Capuliyoc to Chiquisca. It was hot most of the time, and we were under direct sunlight.
If you start trekking from Mirador de Capuliyoc, the distance to Chiquisca is 7.5 km, which means you can hike further on the first day. You can hike either to Santa Rosa Baja (11.5 km) or to Marampata (14.7 km). Both places have camping sites, rooms, small shops and meals.
We camped at Chiquisca (6,234ft /1,900m) and got there by around 3 pm. Chiquisca turned out to be the largest and busiest camping site on the trek. There are rooms available here: a room + dinner costs 42 soles. Lunch costs 18 soles. You can buy drinks and snacks.
There was another campsite by the Apurimac river – Playa Rosalina, which was 1.2 mi/2 km further from Chiquisca, however, currently closed as of November 2024.
If you are a fast hiker or started from Mirador de Capuliyoc, you can push further for another 3 km from Playa Rosalina and stay at Santa Rosa Baja. There are rooms available for 25-30 soles. Camping is 10 soles. There is a small shop and cooked meals available for 15 soles.
Update for 2025: this campsite is now closed. There is a campsite and rooms in Cocamasana located approximately halfway between Capuliyoc and Chiquisca. It is also a good option if you start late and can’t get to Chiquisca or Playa Rosalina. There’s a small shop and cooked meals available.
Day 2. Chiquisca to Marampata, 5.8mi /9.4km
Day 2 at a Glance
Day 2 was physically challenging. In the morning, we walked down to the Apurimac River, which took 45 minutes, and crossed the bridge.
From there, we hiked up to Marampata (9,577ft/2,919m). It was a steep and long ascent with a lot of switchbacks on the trail.
Streams were flowing down the mountains, so we could refill our water bottles. From Chiquisca to Marampata, there were several stalls selling drinks and snacks. Santa Rosa Baja (2,090 m), located just under halfway up the steep ascent to Marampata, is a good stop before continuing to Marampata. There are rooms for 25-30 soles. Camping is 10 soles. There is also a small shop, and you can buy prepared meals for 15 soles.
After a long and steep ascent, we finally reached Marampata, a small Andean village overlooking the Apurimac canyon. The camping site was very nice with green grass and incredible views. If you prefer to stay in a cabin, there are several options in Marampata. You can buy food and drinks here.
What I would do differently on Day 2
As we arrived in Marampata in the early afternoon, if I had a chance to do it all over again, I would have lunch in Marampata and continue to hike to Choquequirao and camp there, enjoy the sunset and sunrise, and explore the Choquequirao ruins the following day.
Day 3. Marampata – Choquequirao Ruins – Rio Blanco, 9.25mi/ 14.9km
Day 3 at a Glance
In the morning, we hiked about 4 km for about 1.5 hours from Marampata (9,577ft/ 2,919m) to Choquequirao Archaeological Park (3,050m/ 10,007ft). The trail was relatively flat. Soon after leaving Marampata, you will see impressive Paqchayoq terraces.
If you do a 4-day trek, and don’t carry camping gear, stay for a night in Marampata, visit Choquequirao complex, and return and stay for another night in Marampata or Santa Rosa Baja.
There were very few people at Choquequirao. It’s an incredibly peaceful place that allows a more intimate encounter with the Incan history.
The campsite is inside the Archaeological Park, and the price is included in the entry ticket.
After exploring Choquequirao complex for several hours, we decided to continue hiking. We hiked up to Abra Choquequirao (10,800ft /3,292m) and then headed down to Rio Blanco (6,148ft /1,874m).
After about 3 hours of hiking down, there was a sign directing us to the amazing Pinchaunuyoc terraces. Luckily, the ranger at Choquequirao Archaeological Park told us not to miss them. You can camp here and refill water, as they have an amazing Incan irrigation system. It was the only place to get water after we left Marampata. You can also refill water down at Rio Blanca, but there are no shops or stalls selling drinks and snacks until you reach Maizal.
It was hot, dry, and sunny; there was not much shade, so once we got to our campsite at the Rio Blanco, I jumped into the river and got bitten by small flies.
At Rio Blanco, we were bitten by very annoying sandflies. The bites were extremely itchy, and the marks lasted for 3–4 months, so be warned.
Update for 2025: Apparently, it is not possible to camp at Rio Blanco anymore: landslides have wiped out all the flat spots. The best alternative is to camp at the Pinchaunuyoc terraces, where you’ll find nice grassy areas and water
Day 4. Rio Blanco to Maizal, 3.4mi/ 5.5km
Day 4 at a Glance
This day it was humid and shady, unlike yesterday when it was hot and dry on the opposite side of the canyon. We started hiking up to Maizal (9,839ft /2,999m), which was a pretty steep ascent.
The view of the mountains covered with cloud forest was amazing. On the way up, we heard a rumble of rockfall and saw the rocks falling down.
It took us half a day to get to Maizal, and for the rest of the day, we were just relaxing and enjoying incredible views of the Andes.
There is a small shop, so you can buy some snacks and drinks.
Update for 2026: Recent reports suggest that accommodation is now available in Maizal. You can read more about this in this Facebook thread. Another indication comes from a tour agency itinerary mentioning an overnight stay in Maizal. This means that if you can cover the distance from Marampata to Maizal in one day, including a visit to Choquequirao, you could potentially hike without camping gear. However, I wouldn’t rely on it too much; it’s a remote place, not a proper village, and a guesthouse could be closed on the day you pass by, or even if lodging exists, it could easily be occupied by a tour group.
Day 5. Maizal to Yanama, 6.83 mi / 11 km
Day 5 at a Glance
It was foggy in the morning. We started hiking up to Victoria Mines and further to Abra San Juan (13,615ft/ 4,150m) through the humid cloud forest. As we hiked up, it was getting colder. Closer to the top, you will hike on the original paved Inca trail. The elevation gain from Maizal to Abra San Juan was about 3,806 ft / 1,160 m.
The views at Abra San Juan were absolutely stunning.
We had lunch at Abra San Juan and soon started descending to Yanama, where we stayed for the night.
We hiked during the dry season, and there was no water available on this day. Also no shops or stalls between Maizal and Yanama, it’s a remote area. So make sure to stock up before leaving Maizal.
Yanama is a small village with road access. There are a few accommodation and camping options available. You can buy meals, snacks and drinks there.
As there is road access, if you are very tired, you can ask a camp owner to help you arrange a taxi or ask about the colectivo option.
Day 6. Yanama to Totora, 12mi/ 19km
Day 6 at a Glance
In the morning, we headed to Mariano Llamocca Pass (Yanama Pass). It started relatively flat, and the sun was shining. At the end of Yanama Valley, we started a steep hike up to Mariano Llamocca Pass, which is the highest point of the trek (15,289ft/ 4,660m). It took us about 4 hours to get to the pass.
The trail follows along the Yanama River until you cross it before starting a steep hike up to the pass. So you will have a chance to refill water bottles, but you will have to detour from the trail, so maybe easier just to stock up in Yanama. Also, no shops between Yanama and Totora,
It was cold, windy, and snowing. On the other side of the pass, it was misty, and as we were descending, the snow turned into drizzle, and once we reached Totora, it started raining heavily.
In my opinion, on this day we had some of the most beautiful views of the trek.
There are campgrounds in Totora, so we camped there. There are also small shops.
Day 7. Totora to Lucmabamba, 16.2 mi / 26 km
Day 7 at a Glance
Totora to Collpapampa
From Totora, the trek descends gradually along a dirt road for about 8 km, following the Santa Teresa River until you reach Collpapampa. Vegetation changes from highland scrub to tropical foothills. Collpapampa is a small village with plenty of accommodation options. If you don’t want to hike further, a colectivo can take you to Santa Teresa.
Collpapampa to Lucmabamba
In Collpapampa, the Choquequirao Trek meets the Salkantay Trek and follows the same route toward Machu Picchu. From Collpapampa, the trail descends gradually along the river through cloudforest for the first 6.5 km. It’s a very pleasant hike through lush vegetation, passing numerous waterfalls.
The elevation is lower, so it’s noticeably warmer and more humid. But due to a landslide, after 6.5 km, we had to cross the bridge and continue along the dirt road. Just before we crossed the bridge, there was a beautiful campground Wiñaypoco, where huts were also available. In a shop you can buy sandwiches, and drinks including fresh juice and coffee.
This section of the trek is dusty and busy with cars and tour vans. It stretches for 11.5 km until reaching Lucmabamba. Consider catching a passing vehicle to avoid the busy, dusty road. We passed granadilla and avocado plantations along the way, and we bought sweet granadillas for 2 for 1 sol – much cheaper than in Cusco.
In Lucmabamba, we checked into the first guesthouse we saw. It was clean, with hot showers and fresh bedsheets, though a bit noisy from the road. Further up the trail, more accommodations are tucked into the lush vegetation.
This day, accommodation, shops, and prepared meals are available in Collpapampa, La Playa, and Lucmabamba.
What I would do differently
On this stretch of the trek, I would try to catch transport to avoid the dusty dirt-road section. After reaching Lucmabamba, I’d hike a little further along the trail to stay at a quieter guesthouse.
Day 8. Lucmabamba to Llactapata Camp, 4.5 mi / 7.2 km
Day 8 at a Glance
In the morning, we stocked up on some snacks and drinks and headed up to Llactapata ruins. It was a very pleasant hike. We hiked through the lush green coffee region. If you plan to stay at Llactapata Lodge and Camp, you will have enough time to stop for a coffee tour on the way.
After 1 h 45 min we reached a stop with a small shop where you can buy water, soft drinks, fresh orange juice, coffee, and sandwiches. Closer to the top, before reaching Llactapata ruins, there is another small shop.
It took us about 2 hr 40 min to get to the ruins, and the elevation gain to the ruins was 762 m. Llactapata ruins are a small complex at an elevation of 2,770 m, and from there we could see Machu Picchu. It’s a much less-known view from a different angle. After exploring the Llactapata site, we continued hiking down to the Llactapata Lodge and Camp.
Day 9. Llactapata Camp – Hidroelectrica – Aguas Calientes, 10.56 mi /17 km
Day 9 at a Glance
From Llactapata to the Hydroelectrica train station, it’s a boring downhill hike with no breathtaking views. The distance is about 5 km, and the elevation loss is about 755 m.
There are food stalls at Hidroelectrica, so you can have lunch there.
From Hydroelectrica, we followed the railway tracks for 7.5 mi (12 km) to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo). It’s a relatively flat hike, taking about 2.5 hrs. Please don’t walk ON the train tracks, as it is prohibited and not safe.
In Aguas Calientes, there are plenty of accommodation options, including a campsite.
Day 10. Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, 2.1 mi / 3.5 km
Day 10. Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu – At a Glance
There are two ways to get to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes:
1. Take the bus. The road is 8 km uphill, with tight switchbacks. The first bus leaves at 5:30 am, and departures run every 10–15 minutes. During peak early morning hours, buses run more frequently. The ride takes about 30 minutes. You can buy tickets online in advance or at the bus ticket office in Aguas Calientes. Expect to wait 30–60 minutes in line, and even longer during high season.
2. Hike up. The trail is 3.5–4 km and follows steep shortcuts that cut across the road. It takes roughly 1–1.5 hours, depending on your pace. We decided to hike up, and it took us about an hour to get to the entrance.
Getting from Aguas Calientes back to Cusco
There are two ways to get from Aguas Calientes to Cusco:
1. The easy (and expensive) option: take the train.
Trains run from Aguas Calientes to Cusco (or Ollantaytambo), and it’s by far the most comfortable and fastest way back, but also the most expensive.
2. The budget option: go via Hydroelectrica.
Walk 7.5 mi / 12 km along the railway tracks to Hydroelectrica. From there, take a tourist van from Hydroelectrica to Cusco for 50 soles. For an even cheaper option, take a colectivo to Santa Teresa, transfer to another colectivo to Santa Maria, and then catch a bus onward to Cusco.
Choquequirao Trek FAQ
No, unlike the famous Inca Trail, the Choquequirao trek does not require a special permit or advance booking through a government system. You can start the hike from Cachora and visit the Choquequirao ruins without purchasing an official trekking permit in advance. Entrance fees (60 soles) for the archaeological site itself still apply.
Yes. The Choquequirao trek does not require a licensed guide or special permit, so it can be done independently. Many experienced hikers do it on their own, including the extended route to Machu Picchu. However, it is a physically demanding, multi-day trek with significant elevation gain and remote sections, so it is best suited to hikers who are comfortable managing navigation, camping logistics, and high-altitude terrain independently.
No, unlike the famous Inca Trail, the Choquequirao trek does not require a special permit or advance booking through a government system. You can start the hike from Cachora and visit the Choquequirao ruins without purchasing an official trekking permit in advance. Entrance fees (60 soles) for the archaeological site itself still apply,
The most common itinerary for the Choquequirao trek is about 4-5 days, typically starting from Cachora, trekking down into the Apurimac canyon, reaching the Choquequirao ruins, and returning to Cachora. If you want to continue beyond Choquequirao all the way to Machu Picchu, that extended route generally takes about 8-10 days, with several of those days being quite remote.
The best time to hike the Choquequirao trek is during the dry season, from May to September, when trails are generally more stable, and rainfall is minimal. These months offer clearer views and safer conditions, especially on the steep sections.
The rainy season (roughly November to March) brings higher temperatures, muddy trails, and an increased risk of landslides, which can make the trek more challenging.
Facilities depend on which route you choose.
On the classic 4-5 Days out-and-back route from Cachora, you’ll find basic infrastructure along the way. There are campsites, a few basic guesthouses, and small local shops along the way. However, facilities are rustic, and availability can vary by season. Supplies are limited, so it’s best not to rely entirely on shops or accommodation being open.
If you take the extended route to Machu Picchu, facilities become more limited. Basic guesthouses and small shops are generally available up to Marampata and again after Yanama, but services are sparse and inconsistent in between. You should be prepared for several remote days with minimal facilities.
Once the route joins the Salkantay Trek, there are more accommodation options, campsites, and food availability.
All information on this blog is for general guidance only. Travel involves inherent risks, and you are solely responsible for your decisions, actions, and safety. We accept no liability for any loss, injury, or inconvenience arising from the use of this information.
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