Pallay Punchu is one of three rainbow mountains in Peru. When most travelers think of Peru’s rainbow mountains, they picture Vinicunca, the popular and often crowded spot. But Pallay Punchu is an equally stunning yet far less visited alternative. Tucked away in the Layo District, this dramatic, multicolored ridge offers jaw-dropping views without the tourist crowds.
In this guide, I’ll show you exactly how to visit Pallay Punchu without a tour — including transport tips, hiking advice, and everything you need to know for an unforgettable independent adventure.
What Is Pallay Punchu?
Pallay Punchu is one of Peru’s lesser-known Rainbow Mountains, and honestly, it feels like a hidden gem. Its jagged ridges are streaked with striking natural colors, ranging from maroon and pink to greenish and turquoise, thanks to mineral-rich layers in the rock. The maroon and red tones come from iron oxide, the greenish and turquoise hues from chlorite and copper-rich minerals, while the white layers are formed by quartzite.
The patterns at Pallay Punchu are distinct from those of Vinicunca: they’re sharp and jagged, a dramatic difference to the smoother, rounded slopes of the more famous Rainbow Mountain.
Compared to Vinicunca, Pallay Punchu is truly off the beaten path. When we visited, we had the whole place almost to ourselves. On our way out, we met a local family heading up for a picnic and a man from nearby Layo town. There weren’t any organized tours at Pallay Punchu that day.
If you love wild landscapes, zero crowds, and a bit of adventure, visiting Pallay Punchu is absolutely worth it. Plus, it’s completely doable without a tour.
One thing to keep in mind: many of the photos online appear to be color-edited, and some were taken with drones. So certain angles and vibrant tones might not look exactly the same.
Where Is Pallay Punchu Located?
Pallay Punchu is located about 190 km south-east of Cusco in the Layo District, in the Canas Province of the Cusco Region, tucked away near the edge of a stunning high-altitude lake called Laguna Langui.
This colorful mountain sits at around 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) above sea level, so it’s a good idea to acclimate before visiting Pallay Punchu.
The landscape out here is wild and dramatic. Think vast open spaces and sharp, jagged ridges that seem to rise straight out of the earth. It’s remote, peaceful, and absolutely worth the journey if you’re after a more off-the-beaten-track rainbow mountain experience.
How to Get to Pallay Punchu Without a Tour: Step-by-Step from Cusco
If you’re traveling on a budget or just prefer the adventure of going independently, you can absolutely visit Pallay Punchu without a tour. It takes some planning and patience, but it’s totally doable, and much cheaper than booking with an agency. Here’s exactly how we did it using local public transport from Cusco:
Step 1: Cusco to Sicuani
Start your day early and head to the Terminal Cusco – Sicuani Los Rápidos on Avenida Huayruropata. This is the main hub for public buses to Sicuani, which depart frequently as soon as they fill up.
Getting to the terminal
You can walk (it’s about 2.1 km from the historic center), or
Grab an InDrive or local taxi for around 9–10 soles.
Our bus left around 7:00 AM, and the ride to Sicuani took approximately 3 hours and 20 minutes. It was a smooth journey through highland landscapes. Buses arrive at Terminal Terrestre Sicuani.
Ticket price: 10 soles (approx. USD 2.80).
Step 2: Sicuani to Layo
From Sicuani, your next stop is the small town of Layo, which is closer to the Pallay Punchu trailhead.
You’ll need to get to the colectivo station (shared minivans), located about two blocks from the Terminal Terrestre Sicuani, at the corner of Jr. 10 de Enero and Jr. Salvador Allende. You can walk there or take a quick tuk-tuk ride for 1.5 soles per person.
Colectivos to Layo depart when full, so be prepared to wait. We waited for about 1 hour until there were enough passengers. The ride itself took 1 hour and 25 minutes.
We arrived in Layo around 12:30 PM, so the total travel time from Cusco to Layo was roughly 6 hours.
Colectivo fare: 6 soles (about USD 1.70).
Don’t hesitate to ask locals for directions – they’re usually happy to help.
Quick Lunch Stop in Layo
Since we arrived right around lunchtime, we stopped for a quick meal just a short walk from the Plaza de Armas. Menu del día (set lunch) cost us only 7 soles.
Step 3: Layo to the Trailhead
We decided to stay overnight in Layo and visit Pallay Punchu the next morning. We stayed outside of Layo at Apu T’Acllo Lodge which is located closer to the trailhead and 3.5km from Layo. The room was clean and cozy, with comfy beds, fresh sheets, and hot showers. The house is new, and the owner, Julia, was incredibly welcoming and friendly. The walk to the lodge is scenic, with mountains in front of you and lots of alpacas grazing along the way.
The distance from Layo to the Pallay Punchu trailhead is about 8 km. Since we walked from our lodge just outside the town, it was roughly 5 km for us, and it took about 1.5 hours to reach the trailhead on foot.
The hike starts out relatively flat, but soon becomes a steady uphill climb. The total elevation gain to the trailhead is approximately 400 meters.
Entrance Fee to Pallay Punchu
Some tour agency websites mention an entrance fee of 10 soles, but it’s unclear who the fee is paid to. When we visited, there was no booth or anyone collecting payment at the trailhead or along the route.
The Hike to Pallay Punchu
Once you reach the trailhead, the hike around Pallay Punchu is about 3 km and takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, depending on how often you stop for photos. The highest point is 4,790 m above the sea level. Elevation gain from the trailhead to the highest point is about 200 meters.
We spent about 2.5 hours in total, including time for taking photos, filming videos, and flying a drone. We also decided to hang around for a while to let the sun shift and light up the colorful layers more dramatically. However, the sun was slow, and so we decided to head down.
Getting from Pallay Punchu back to Cusco
Hike from Pallay Punchu to Occobamba
Instead of backtracking to Layo, we continued our journey by walking to Occobamba, a small village located on the other side of Pallay Punchu. The hike took us about 2 hours and was a scenic descent through quiet valleys and grazing lands used by local shepherds.
Along the way, you’ll pass plenty of alpacas, llamas, donkeys, and cows. It’s a peaceful and authentic look into rural life in this part of Peru.
The terrain can become muddy after rain, and you’ll need to cross a river that cuts across the road three or four times. At most crossings, you can hop over rocks, but at one point, we had to find a narrower section to jump across, as the water was too deep and wide.
Time: It took us 6.5 hours from 5:30 am to 12:00 pm, including time for video filming, drone flights, and waiting for the sunlight to shift for better photos.
Getting from Occobamba to Sicuani
Once we reached the main road in Occobamba, we were lucky: a colectivo picked us up within a couple of minutes.
Colectivo fare to Sicuani: 4 soles.
Duration: About 40 minutes.
In Sicuani, the colectivo dropped us about two blocks from Terminal Terrestre Sicuani: an easy 5–10 minute walk.
Return to Cusco from Sicuani
From Sicuani to Cusco, the journey takes about 3.5 to 4 hours, depending on traffic and departure time.
Ticket price: 10 soles.
Where to Stay Nearby
If you don’t want to be in a rush, it makes sense to stay in Layo for one night. According to Google Maps, there is one hostel in Layo, but there’s not much information about it, no photos and only a single one-star review.
We decided to stay at Apu T’Acllo Lodge, which is located about 3 km from Layo. This place has excellent reviews. The owner, Julia, is very welcoming, and the room was clean and comfortable. It’s very quiet and peaceful .
Want more inspiration on travel in Peru, check out my post on Choquequirao trek.