Gokayama might not be the first place that comes to mind when planning a trip to Japan – but that’s exactly what makes it so special. Tucked away in the mountains of Toyama Prefecture, Gokayama is home to two of the most picturesque villages I’ve visited: Ainokura and Suganuma.
These well-preserved settlements are part of the UNESCO-listed Historic Villages of Shirakawa-go and Gokayama, known for their unique gassho-zukuri houses with steep thatched-roofs designed to withstand the region’s heavy snowfall.
Gokayama has 40 villages, but only two of them – Ainokura and Suganuma are registered as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Locals still live in these traditional thatched-roof houses, maintaining customs passed down for generations. Gokayama’s remoteness shaped the villages into self-sufficient communities, relying on rice farming, gunpowder production, silkworm cultivation and silk production. Unlike many rural areas in Japan that have modernized rapidly, these villages have preserved their way of life, offering a rare glimpse into the country’s past.
While many travelers flock to the more famous Shirakawa-go, Ainokura and Suganuma offer a quieter, more authentic experience. I visited all three villages, and it is true – Shirakawa-go is extremely popular with tourists, while both Ainokura and Suganuma are incredibly peaceful.
In this Gokayama travel guide, I’ll share everything you need to know about visiting Ainokura and Suganuma, from how to get there and what to expect, to where to stay and tips based on my own experience exploring the area. If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination in Japan that combines nature, culture, and a sense of peace, Gokayama is the place.
Content
- Gokayama Villages vs Shirakawa-go
- Things to see and do
- Best Time to Visit
- How to get there
- Where to Stay
- Additional practical information
Gokayama Villages vs Shirakawa-go
Most travelers head straight to Shirakawa-go, but if you’re looking for a quieter, more authentic experience, Ainokura and Suganuma in Gokayama are the way to go. These villages have the same beautiful gassho-zukuri houses but without the big crowds. The mix of fewer tourists and remote charm makes them a perfect spot, if you prefer peaceful and off the beaten path places. Having visited both Shirakawago and Gokayama villages, I can say the difference in the number of visitors is huge. We visited Gokayama on a weekday — Ainokura in the morning and Suganuma in the afternoon. It was snowing during our visit. I’m not sure if the weather made a difference, but in Ainokura, we saw only one other visitor, and in Suganuma, just a handful of people.
However, if you have sufficient time, I do recommend visiting both Gokayama and Shirakawa-go. In my opinion, the larger size of Shirakawa’s Ogimachi village does make a difference in the scenery.
1. Smaller Villages, Fewer Tourists
Shirakawa-go’s Ogimachi Village has about 180 thatched-roof houses, making it the largest and the most famous. Meanwhile, Ainokura has around 20 and Suganuma just 9. These smaller villages attract far fewer tourists.
2. Harder to Get To
Shirakawa-go is easy to reach, with direct buses from Takayama, Kanazawa, and Nagoya. But to get to Ainokura and Suganuma you’ll need to take a local bus or drive through winding mountain roads. The extra effort keeps casual tourists away, making the experience much more relaxed.
3. Less Commercialized
Shirakawa-go has large parking lots, and plenty of restaurants catering to tourists. Meanwhile Ainokura and Suganuma have kept things simple, with only a few guesthouses, a museum or two, and small local craft shops. This means fewer distractions and more time to just take in the scenery.
Things to see and do in Gokayama villages
Ainokura and Suganuma are small, but there’s no shortage of things to see and do here. Here’s what you can do while exploring these peaceful villages:
Wander Around the Villages and Explore the Gassho-Zukuri Houses
Of course, you’ve got to start with the Gassho-Zukuri houses. These iconic, thatched-roof homes are a huge part of what makes the villages so special. Take your time walking through the streets.
In Ainokura, there are 20 gassho-zukuri farmhouses, while in Suganuma, there are 9 farmhouses. In both villages some of the farmhouses were turned into restaurants, museums, shops or guesthouses.
Museums and Experiences
If you want to go beyond just admiring the beautiful Gassho-Zukuri houses, both Ainokura and Suganuma have museums which give you a glimpse into how these remote villages thrived for centuries.
In the Edo period there were three major industries in Gokayama: raising silkworms, niter (saltpeter) production and washi paper production.
Many of the Gasshō-zukuri farmhouses in Ainokura and Suganuma were used for raising silkworms. The steep, thatched roofs weren’t just designed to shed snow, but also to create space and ventilation for raising silkworms on the upper floors. This traditional silk-making practice was once a key part of life in these remote mountain villages. You can still see old tools and displays in local museums.
Gokayama was one of Japan’s few sources of niter, a key ingredient in gunpowder. It was produced through a labor-intensive process using natural materials like soil, ash, and animal waste.
Another important industry in Gokayama was washi paper production, using fibers from mulberry trees and clear mountain water. This handmade paper was prized for its strength, beauty, and durability.
Museums and Activities in Ainokura
Full view of Ainokura photo spot
This spot is a total must if you’re in Ainokura. The trail starts right behind the office building near the parking lot and takes about five minutes. The trail leads you along scenic terraced rice fields to a stunning viewpoint overlooking the entire Ainokura village. It’s the perfect place to take in the thatched-roof houses nestled among the mountains.
Ainokura Traditional Industry Museum
The Traditional Industry Museum is perfect for anyone interested in the village’s craftsmanship and agricultural heritage. This museum focuses on the tools and techniques used in silk production, paper making, farming, and other local industries.
Admission fee: Adults ¥500, primary and middle school students ¥200.
Ainokura Folklore Museum
Update: Currently this museum is temporarily closed.
Ainokura Folklore Museum is a great place to dive into the traditional lifestyle of Ainokura. It showcases a variety of local crafts, tools, and items used by the villagers in daily life.
Exhibition Hall Yusuke
Named after the village’s local historian, the Yusuke Exhibition Hall houses personal collections that showcase the history and culture of Ainokura. You’ll find items related to daily life, silkworm cultivation, along with old photographs that offer a glimpse into the village’s past. On the third floor, you can see the thatched roof structure from inside.
Admission fee: Adults ¥500, primary and middle school students ¥300.
Gokayama Washi Paper Making Experience Hall
Currently temporarily closed.
At the Gokayama Washi Making Experience Hall, you can watch the process of washi paper production using traditional techniques. After observing the process, you’ll get the chance to make your own washi by hand, using natural fibers and traditional tools.
Fee: ¥800.
Although this place is currently closed, you can still learn about the paper making process and try to make your own paper at Gokayama Washi No Sato located at Roadside Station Taira, which is 7.5 km from Ainokura.
Museums and Activities in Suganuma
Suganuma may be small, but it has a few fascinating museums that offer a deeper look into the village’s history, traditions, and unique industries. There is also Gokayama Gassho no Sato right next to Suganuma Village.
Gokayama Minzoku-kan (Gokayama Folklore Museum)
Gokayama Folklore Museum is set inside a Gassho-Zukuri house, giving visitors an immersive experience of how people lived in Suganuma centuries ago. Inside, you’ll find exhibits showcasing traditional farming and silk production tools, daily household items, and artifacts related to the village’s self-sufficient lifestyle. On the second floor you will also see the structure of the interior of the roof.
Admission fee: Combined ticket for Suganuma museums: Adults ¥400, primary and middle school students ¥200.
Enshō no Yakata (Saltpeter House Museum)
Suganuma has a fascinating history of niter (saltpeter) production, which was an essential ingredient for gunpowder. The Saltpeter House Museum displays traditional tools and techniques used in niter production.
Admission fee: Combined ticket for Suganuma museums: Adults ¥400, primary and middle school students ¥200.
Gokayama Gassho no Sato
Gassho no Sato (which means “Gassho Village”) is located right next to Suganuma Village. When you arrive at Suganuma, you’ll take a short lift ride down from the parking lot, then walk through a tunnel. If you head right, you’ll reach Suganuma village; if you turn left, you’ll arrive at Gassho no Sato.
Gassho no Sato is a small cluster of traditional farmhouses that were relocated from nearby areas to preserve them from being lost. No one lives in these houses today—they’re now used for school group overnights and cultural programs.
We visited Gassho no Sato on a weekday afternoon. It snowed, and there were no other visitors around. Since no one lives there, the whole place had a bit of a ghost town vibe.
Best Time to Visit Gokayama: Ainokura & Suganuma
Japan is known for having four distinct seasons, and Gokayama really shows that off. These mountain villages change dramatically depending on the season — from snowy wonderlands in winter to bright green landscapes in summer.
Winter – A Snowy Fairytale
If you love winter landscapes, this is the most magical time to visit. Heavy snowfall blankets the villages, creating a picture-perfect winter scene.
From my experience, December is the worst time to come to Gokayama. Snow starts falling, but it melts. I’ve been lucky to visit in winter twice, and the difference between early and late winter was huge. The first time was in late December, and to be honest, it was a bit underwhelming. Bare trees, no snow, and kind of a dull vibe overall. But when I returned at the end of January, it was a totally different story. It snowed heavily on the day, thick snow blanketed the villages, and everything looked magical. If would like to see Ainokura and Suganuma in snow, be sure to plan a trip for mid-January – February.
Winter Illumination Events are held in early February in Suganuma, and in mid-February in Ainokura. For 2026 lit-up events in Ainokura are scheduled for 21st and 22nd of February. As of now, the specific dates for the Suganuma Village illumination events in 2026 haven’t been announced, so please check information closer to winter on Gokayama Official Travel Site.
Spring – Flower Season and Rice Planting
Spring brings warmer temperatures to Ainokura and Suganuma. In March, snow starts melting, but it is still possible to see snow patches. In mid to late April, you can enjoy cherry blossoms, and other flowers also start blooming. The rice paddies start to fill with water, reflecting the traditional houses like a mirror. By mid to late May rice planting begins
Summer – Lush Greenery
If you want to experience Gokayama at its greenest, summer is the time to go. The mountains and rice fields turn a brilliant shade of green. The weather is warm but not unbearable, thanks to the higher elevation. Also, remember that the rainy season lasts from June to July. Gokayama villages look lush and green, and the misty atmosphere adds a quiet charm.
Autumn – Vibrant Autumn Colors
Autumn is one of the most breathtaking times to visit. The surrounding mountains explode with red, orange, and yellow foliage, creating a stunning contrast against the wooden houses. It’s the perfect season for photography and crisp, comfortable weather. Late October to early November is usually the best time to catch peak colors.
How to get to Gokayama Villages
How to get from Tokyo to Ainokura and Suganuma
There are no direct train or bus services from Tokyo to Gokayama. When traveling to Gokayama by public transport, we took:
- Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Shin-Takaoka Station (travel time: 2hrs 55 min, cost: ¥13,300 for non-reserved seat, ¥13,830 for reserved seat, fully covered by Japan Rail Pass. 💡Tip: You can purchase JR Pass online via the Official JR Pass page or through an authorised dealer like Klook. There was a price increase in 2023, so I recommend to do your math to see if it is worth buying JR Pass. Use the JR Fare Calculator to help plan your trip.
- Exit Shin-Takaoka Station through the South Gate, and you will see a bus station. Take the World Heritage Bus heading to Shirakawa-go. You will need to get off at Suganuma or Ainokuraguchi, depending on where you go. It takes about 1hr to Ainokura, and 1hr 20 min to Suganuma. There are 5 buses per day. One-way bus ticket to Ainokura is ¥1,000, to Suganuma ¥1,200. If you plan to travel to several destinations (e.g. Shirakawa, Ainokura, Suganuma), you can save by buying one of the World Heritage Bus passes. You can find more information on passes on Visit Toyama website or Kaetsunou Bus website.
How to get from Shirakawago to Ainokura and Suganuma
To get from Shirakawago to Gokayama Villages, take the World Heritage Bus from Shirakawago Bus Terminal. Since there are only 5 buses per day, plan your trip in advance. You can check timetable here. It takes about 30 min to Suganuma and 45 min to Ainokura. One-way bus ticket to Ainokura is ¥1,000, to Suganuma ¥1,300. You can save by buying one of the World Heritage Bus passes. You can find more information on passes on Visit Toyama website or Kaetsunou Bus website.
Getting to Gokayama by car
Driving is a great option if you want flexibility and a bit of freedom. With your own wheels, you can easily visit Ainokura, Suganuma, and even Shirakawa-go in a single day without having to rely on bus schedules.
If you plan to rent a car, I recommend comparing deals on DiscoverCars, where check offers from multiple rental companies in one place. It’s an easy way to find the best price for your trip.
Just keep in mind, if you’re visiting in winter, there’s usually a lot of snow, so winter tires are a must, and you’ll need to be confident driving in snowy conditions. The roads are well maintained, but it can get slippery out there.
During our second visit, we traveled by campervan, and it made the whole experience more flexible. We could stop where we wanted, take our time in each village, and enjoy the mountain roads at our own pace.
All villages have parking. Parking fee for Ainokura and Suganuma was ¥500 for a regular car.
Where to Stay in Gokayama
Stay Overnight in a Gassho-Zukuri Farmhouse
For the most authentic experience, try booking a night in a traditional Gassho-Zukuri house. Some of them operate as small minshuku (family-run guesthouses), where you can enjoy home-cooked meals, warm hospitality, and that peaceful countryside vibe. Staying in one of these homes feels like stepping back in time and offers a glimpse into traditional Japanese life. Here’s what you can expect:
The interiors typically feature tatami-matted rooms, sliding shoji doors, and a central irori hearth used for heating and cooking. Guest rooms are furnished in the classic Japanese style with tatami flooring and minimalistic decor. Keep in mind that rooms are often separated by sliding doors, which may not provide the same level of sound insulation as modern walls.
Meals are a highlight of the stay, featuring local delicacies such as grilled rockfish, wild mountain vegetables, and the renowned Gokayama tofu, known for its firm texture. These dishes are often prepared over the irori hearth, enhancing the authenticity of the dining experience.
While the experience is enriching, it’s important to note that these are historic structures. Modern amenities may be limited, bathrooms are shared, and the insulation might not match contemporary standards, leading to cooler indoor temperatures, especially in winter.
Just note: availability is limited and places fill up fast, so make bookings in advance.
Ainokura minshukus
There are several traditional Gassho-Zukuri minshukus in Ainokura. They can be booked through Gokayama Tourist Information Center by email at mail@gokayama-info.jp. Below I have put together the list of Ainokura minshukus:
- Yusuke (¥13,000 per person if 2 people staying, ¥12,000 per person if 3 people staying, ¥11,000 per person if over 4 people staying, including dinner & breakfast) – can be booked directly via Facebook or Instagram DM.
- Choyomon (¥14,000 per person including dinner & breakfast + additional ¥500 heating fee November to May)
- Yomoshiro (¥14,000 per person including dinner & breakfast + additional ¥500 heating fee November to May)
- Goyomon (¥14,000 per person including dinner & breakfast + additional ¥500 heating fee November to May)
- Nakaya (¥14,000 per person including dinner & breakfast + additional ¥500 heating fee November to May)
- Shoshichi (¥33,000 per person including dinner & breakfast)
Please be aware that most of minshukus in Ainokura allow to stay for only one night. Same applies for Shirakawago Gassho-Zukuri farmhouse stays.
Suganuma
As far as I know, there are no minshukus in Suganuma. However, you can rent a traditional Gassho-Zukuri cottage in Gassho no Sato, just a five minutes walk from Suganuma. Cottages can fit groups of 10-16 people. You can find more information and submit an enquiry here.
Other accommodation options
You can also find some guesthouses along National Route 156. We stayed in Yamashita Ya Guesthouse. It’s a nice clean guesthouse with a friendly and helpful owner. Some rooms have futon beds, and some have western style beds. It is located approximately halfway between Ainokura and Suganuma. You can book on both Agoda or Booking.com. I found one more guesthouse in this area available to book on Booking.com – Gokayama Base Guesthouse.
Another good option is to base yourself in Shirakawa-go, which has more accommodation choices, from Gassho-style stays to modern inns. From there, it takes about 30 min to Suganuma and 45 min to Ainokura. When planning your trip, please note that if you plan to stay in Gassho-Zukuri farmhouse in either Shirakawa or Ainokura, you can only stay for a maximum of one night, so if you plan to stay for more than one, you will need to book two different farmhouse stays. This doesn’t apply to guesthouses or inns outside of the village.
If you’re traveling by campervan, there are two roadside stations nearby: Roadside Station Kamitaira (14 km from Ainokura and 4 km from Suganuma) and Roadside Station Taira (7.7 km from Ainokura and 13.5 km from Suganuma).
At Roadside Station Taira, you can visit Gokayama Washi no Sato, where you can learn about the papermaking process and even try making your own paper.
We stayed at Roadside Station Kamitaira, a very quiet stop. The facilities are a bit old but clean, and behind the shops, there’s a stunning view of the Sho River and a small waterfall.
Additional practical information
Admissions fee
Entry to both Ainokura and Suganuma is free; however, parking fees apply.
Parking
There’s parking available in both villages. The parking fee is ¥500 per day for a regular car. The Ainokura parking lot is open from 8:30 am to 5:00 pm, while the Suganuma parking lot is open from 8:00 am to 5:00 pm from April to November, and from 9:00 am to 5:00 pm from December to March (entry is permitted until 4:00 pm).
Cars are not allowed in the village
Residents are allowed to drive within the village; however, tourists are not permitted to drive inside either Ainokura or Suganuma.
Restaurants
Suganuma village restaurants:
- Gokayama Gorobei Restaurant – open from 10am to 4pm, please check menu here.
- Yohachi – open from 9.30am to 5pm, more information here.
Ainokura village restaurants:
- Matsuya – open 9am to 5pm, please check menu here.
- Aikouraya – open 9am to 4pm, please check menu here.
Rubbish
There are no rubbish bins in either Ainokura or Suganuma, so you’ll need to take your rubbish with you.
No smoking
Smoking is prohibited in the Gokayama villages due to the highly flammable nature of the gassho-style houses.
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